That means making engineering choices that result in an airframe that is only as strong as necessary to withstand flight stresses and ground handling. Anyone can easily build a model that is strong. We see it all the time in models that are not only strong, but also much heavier than they need to be.
This pitfall is avoidable if you understand how loads are distributed through the airframe and you target those specific loads and avoid the temptation to add more structure "just to be safe.
Heavy models are almost always poorly engineered. A well engineered model can still end up heavy due to poor material and equipment selection or poor building techniques. Even so, a properly engineered model at least gives you a fighting chance.HOW TO ESTIMATE THE THRUST ON RC AIRPLANES
A poorly engineered model is usually a lost cause unless you take it back to the drawing board and redesign the entire model. The designer doesn't understand model aircraft structures and over-designs. The designer copies poor engineering concepts of other bad designers or he comes up with all new poor concepts of his own.
The design is compromised to ease building at the expense of additional weight. Poor strength-to-weight materials are used to decrease costs to the manufacturer. Additional cheap and heavy material is added to compensate for lack of strength which in turn adds more weight. Any model having lite-plywood fuselage sides is weaker and heavier than the same model would be if it had properly engineered balsa wood sides.
Even if the plywood sides have large cut-outs, Warren truss fuselage construction is lighter while attaining a higher strength-to-weight ratio. Builders have become so lazy over the years that any time they discuss a model having built-up fuselage sides, the kit is called a builder's kit meaning that the kit is only for "true builders.
If you aren't willing to do the work to build a lightweight aircraft then don't be surprised when your models don't fly as well as those built by builders who are willing to make the effort. Actually I do know why and here's a clue. Contest balsa ribs don't weigh anything.
You could put 50 of them in a wing and it wouldn't make but at most an ounce of difference in the finished weight. The lack of ribs in 3D aircraft is only to give the illusion of light weight.
More ribs make a more durable wing having a more accurate airfoil. You get all of this at no weight penalty. To counter this supposedly lightweight wing, the designers take a thick heavy slab of balsa, slap on some plywood heavier around the nose and call it a fuselage.
So much for the weight savings of having only 4 ribs in the wing! And by the way, take a look at the size of the leading edge and spars on some of these 3D planks.Free sticky notes for desktop
They are much larger and heavier than what is normally used on more traditional wings. Heavy spars weigh more than light ribs.Jumper t16 usb charging
The rest are medium or hard balsa to be used in the wing center sections. I intend to space the full ribs 2" apart with one half rib between full ribs. Therefore there will be a rib every 1" at the leading edge. The set of 74 ribs weighs a total of 30 grams approximately 1. What that means is that if the design could somehow use no ribs at all the weight savings would be only a little over an ounce. Nevertheless I will remove the interior of the ribs for a few reasons.
First, I am paying attention to grams in this model.Ready for takeoff? Remote control planes are fun and more affordable than ever. To help you find the best one, we've researched over 50 remote control aircraft and selected the top The length between both wingtips, measured after the plane is fully assembled. Causes the engine to stutter a minute before the battery is drained to warn you.
How long it took us to assembled the aircraft. Some planes require no assembly. This is hands down one of the best remote control planes you can buy. Everything you need to start flying is included at an affordable price, no assembly required. The Hobbyzone Sport Cub S is very beginner friendly and easy to learn. It has a panic button that auto-levels the plane when needed. These features, mixed with the sturdy and light-weight design, make it fun and simple to fly for anybody.
Once you know all controls, it's time for some advanced flying. The Sport Cub S lets you fly loops, barrel rolls, and more using the included 4-channel control, which has working throttle, rudder, elevator, and aileron. The Sport Cub S also uses a fixed main wheel and steerable tail wheel which make takeoff and landing easier. The plane's body frame is made from polystyrene foam, a great choice that makes the airplane light and durable.
We crashed Sport Cub S several times without any damage. The only downside to this plane and other RC airplanes is that its batteries will eventually run out.
Problem solved. Overall, this is an all-around excellent remote control aircraft. This powerful RC plane doesn't just look cool, it's lightning fast and offers a great range of feet!
These specs make the Delta Ray perfect for high-performance flying. It's a great choice if you're looking for a nimble, responsive, and very agile RC airplane. Everything you need to get started is already included, which is a big plus. We recommend it for both beginners and for experienced pilots since it's easy to fly but has enough performance so that you have room to grow.
Most importantly, this plane is a lot of fun! Like many other planes shown here, the Delta Ray includes a panic button which returns the plane to stable, level flight with the push of a button. It's a great feature to have! You can never have enough.
It should be noted that this plane can fly very fast and that crashes at high speeds could cause damage, so fly carefully and use the panic button early to stabilize the plane when you need to.
That being said, this plane is pure entertainment! It's big, it's quick, and it's one of the best choices for flying stunts that will be the envy of your friends. You'll absolutely love it! It's a high quality and very reliable remote control airplane that offers some of the most stable flying of any RC planes we've seen. You'll be surprised by the size of this plane: It's big, with a wingspan of almost four feet!Many RC pilots build and fly these large scale RC airplanes just because it's awesome to fly a huge airplane!
Other RC pilots spend thousands of dollars and countless hours preparing for scale competitions that emulate full scale aerobatic airplane competitions. Whether you're flying for pure fun or for competition, you'd better be a darn good pilot before getting behind the sticks of one of these giant airplanes! Giant Scale Aircraft require larger engines, stronger and more servos, and are over all much more expensive than the average RC airplane.
Until recently most RC airplanes this large were either built from a kit or set of plans. Now there are a variety of high quality Giant Scale ARF's for those of us that lack the time or patience to build such a beast from the ground up! With the IMAA, the size of the airplane is really all that matters. IMAC is geared towards performance and competitions.
Each flying season, the calendar is packed with non-competitive IMAA sponsored flying events across the country. These events provide a safe and fun atmosphere for RC pilots to show off their giant scale airplanes. The size of your aircraft is really the only requirement for participating in IMAA events.
In other words, your RC airplane doesn't have to be a "true scale" airplane. It just has to meet the following requirements. A true quarter scale RC airplane or larger will be permitted even if it doesn't the above requirements. But there are plenty of other events around the country throughout the entire flying season. The IMMA has recently dissolved as an official organization. However, you can still visit their Facebook Page to socialize with other giant scale airplane fanatics! A good set of plans to follow makes it fairly easy to build a giant scale airplane of your own, if you have the room to keep it!
Although if your new to the hobby, you really need to learn how to fly smaller planes first before attempting to fly one of these bad boys!
Flying Scale Models is a bi-monthly publication geared exclusively towards scalemodel aviation. This includes radio control, control line, and free flight planes ranging from tiny indoor birds to gigantic ships! This model airplane magazine will give you tips and techniques to build your very own scale version of just about any type of airplane imaginable!
The fully colored pages throughout shows you crisp images of the mind-boggling detail that goes into spectacular scale airplanes! If you've never watched a full scale aerobatic airplane in action, you really are missing out. Some of the maneuvers they perform are mind blowing. These competitions are broken up into four classes which are Basic, Sportsman, Advanced, and Unlimited.New to RC flying?
Get my popular ebook today, to help you on your way! More of a 'rule of thumb' than a hard and fast rule, the Watts per pound rule is one that lets you determine the power output needed for your electric rc airplane, to give it the performance that you desire. Here are some Watts per pound values that should put you in the right ballpark for your particular plane By working around those categories you should be able to decide how much power your rc airplane needs to perform well, but it has to be said that those values aren't set in stone.
They are very good starting points though. Over-propping an electric rc airplane is one sure way to burn out the ESC because the motor is forced to work harder than it's designed for, and so it tries to draw more current than you calculated the ESC to handle. Incidentally, a Watt is the correct unit to measure electrical power and Watts are calculated by multiplying the voltage V by current in amps, for which the proper symbol is 'I' but you'll also likely see it written as 'A'.
If you're looking for the IC internal combustion equivalent, 1hp horsepower is equal to W. The only sure-fire way to determine how much power your particular setup is producing is to use a Watt meter.
This useful little tool actually essential if you do want to start experimenting with different EP setups connects between the flight pack and ESC, and will give you various readings throughout the power range.
Simply connect it up and power up your plane, and read off how many Watts are being produced. Above: an RC Watt meter is essential once you get in to doing your own electric power setups. It's worth noting that although the Watts per pound rule works on the actual flying weight of the airplane, the more realistic and accurate reference to a plane's performance in relation to its flying weight is called the wing loading. The larger the wing area and lighter the plane, then the lower the wing loading will be and vice versa.
A lower wing loading means slower take off capability and better flying performance in many ways. But for the purpose of calculating power requirements for your model, in terms of the Watts per pound rule, work with the actual weight of it and don't worry about wing area or loading. If you're a complete beginner to the hobby with your first RTF rc planethen you won't need to worry about Watts per pound or wing loadings just yet.
I know guys that bolt. Not really and it all depends on the airplane. Like you mentioned, wing loading makes all the difference in the world. A Cub will fly well with an engine that won't get some planes of the ground. I had one with an old Ohlsson 60 with an OS 4B carb on it. As for using a 40 on a 20 sized airplane.
It seems that everyone is into winged rockets today. Today everyone uses a 60 or bigger and I've seen them with 90 four cycles.
I have seen some really strong size engines on the market and was wondering if there would be an advantage to using one on a. I think you could also decrease the fuel load. And with modern lightweight receivers and batteries. See where I'm going. You can also divide the engine's HP by the model's weight in ounces to get the HP per ounce. Current 2M pattern planes typically have a hp per ounce ratio of around 0. A 5lb. An average. That's 0.
Put a 2hp.
Giant Scale Airplanes
I would say a hp per ounce figure of 0. Well, frankly I wouldn't put a. I'd go for a ball bearing. The weight savings between a "powerful". With the high-power ". Worried that a typical ARF trainer is a bit heavy for you e. You'll probably do alright on an asphalt strip, but flying off of grass will most likely be frustrating FWIW, I agree with rainedave's suggestion of a thrust to weight ratio for most sport planes Takes forever to get off the grass but flies along rather well up in the air.
ORIGINAL: jeffie I have seen some really strong size engines on the market and was wondering if there would be an advantage to using one on a.Setting up a plane for your first flight is a critical step.
Most of us fiddle with stuffing all the electronics into the fuselage and then placing it on the center of gravity CG stand. If we are wrong, we move some things around and try it again hopefully getting it right through trial and error. We can be proactive in our setups though and perhaps with skill rather than luck nail our CG and eliminate some of the frustrations getting plane to balance create. This, however, leaves many variances available to the flight demons that crash your planes.
As an example, the difference in the weight of your servos, electronic gear, motor, and if it is an electric, the battery, can create a large difference in the AUW as prescribed by the manufacturer. This difference makes getting the CG difficult. Recently, I was experimenting with electric motors for a 3D plane. The two choices ranged in weight from grams to grams. Given that motors have the greatest amount of leverage on the center of gravity this difference in weight is huge.
So the fact is you have a range of weights and an issue of where to put that weight to correctly maintain the CG.
Full scale aircraft are typically designed with a weight and balance chart. Using a datum which is a fixed point in or ahead of the plane, measurements are given for each item in the plane and their associated weights.
The engine then should be very close to this point and maybe weigh as I mentioned before grams and is two inches from the datum wall. The distance is referred to as the arm.
My next item is the ESC which weighs say 30 grams and is located 5 inches from the datum. The battery, perhaps the heaviest item we have to install may weigh 80 grams and is located 13 inches behind the datum. The sum of the weight for each item times the arm equals the moment.
Here is how an aircraft would determine the center of gravity all things being equal.
RC Airplane Calculator
I have divided the moment total by the weight. We now have a CG, but you can see I am going to have problems because 5. I have to move it forward. There are a few assumptions here including the aileron servos have equal arms so they cancel each other out, the wings and tail are disregarded because they are equalized by symmetry and there are at least two more servos to go in tail.
Now you can see we are getting closer to leaving the battery at the present location. There are a few of things you must consider.Mahindra combine harvester price in india
First, does the CG as you determined using this method fall within the prescribed CG by the manufacturer? And you assume the fuselage is straight and acting within the physical laws of a lever. Basically, if a fulcrum is placed under the fuselage the CG point will it balance? Try this method. Weigh everything and measure where you think those items will go.
It is possible you can avoid situations where you can not get a battery far enough forward on some planes or the need to remove the fuel tank to get the receiver battery farther forward under the fuel tank. A well balanced plane ensures a quality flying experience. Very interesing article David. Thank you. I knew that CG was important, but when I started asking questions, no one could elaborate or give me any new info regarding CG. Your article has given me the info that I have been needing.
Thanks Again. Leonard L.New to RC flying? Get my popular ebook today, to help you on your way! Following on from lesson 3this rc flight school page will teach you how to check the weight and balance of your rc airplane. Getting the weight and balance correct before you fly your plane is so important, especially the balance.
Every airplane, whether model or real, has a Centre of Gravity 'CG' or 'CoG' that is determined in the plane's design stage. This CG is where the plane balances longitudinally nose-tail and is crucial to the airplane's flight characteristics. Getting the plane correctly balanced around the CG is an absolute must for safe and stable flying.
Checking the all-up weight AUW of the airplane isn't as crucial as the balance, although it's still very important because, generally speaking, all model aircraft need to be kept as light as possible to ensure optimum performance. If you've bought an ARF or RTF airplane then the weight should more or less come in at what the manufacturer has specified. Building from a kit potentially allows for greater discrepancies in weight, and care must be taken not to build a plane too heavy.
Over-enthusiastic use of glue, or 'heavy' glue such as epoxy, and thicker than necessary covering, and paint, can all add unnecessary weight during the build process, and it all adds up surprisingly quickly! In the unlikely event that your plane is seriously overweight to what it should be, you need to do something about it because the wing loading is going to be higher than it should be, and this is going to worsen the flight characteristics.
There's not a lot you can do to reduce a heavily built airframe. The first step is to identify the correct Centre of Gravity location, as stated by the manufacturer. This CG position should be in the manual, and will read something like "75mm 3 inches back from wing leading edge"for example. Secondly you need to mark the CG location with a pen or tape on the undersides of the wing.
You should mark the CG location close to the fuselage, rather than further out down the wing. One or two inches out from the fuselage sides is fine. Thirdly, and very importantly, you need to get your plane to a 'flight ready' status i.
Don't worry about connecting anything up at this stage though. If you have an IC plane, have the fuel tank empty.
With all this done, slowly lift the plane up with the CG marks on each of your index or middle finger tips The picture above gives you an idea of what should happen when you lift the plane; either the plane will hang more or less horizontally or it will be nose down or tail down. If it hangs level, then the CG is good and you don't need to do anything. If it hangs slightly nose down, this isn't a problem either; a little nose-heaviness is rarely a bad thing.
If it hangs very nose down, or at all tail down, then you need to adjust the balance to get it to hang level. Your first option is to try moving the motor battery pack forwards or backwards, depending on which way your airplane is hanging.
This is the best thing to do to adjust the CG, because you're not adding dead weight to the plane in the form of ballast. If you cannot shift the pack because it's too tight a fit in its compartment, then you need to add ballast to either the nose or tail end of the plane.
If this is the case, add the weight as far out as you can, this will have the greatest effect with the least amount. So, if you need to add weight to the front because the plane is tail heavy, look at fixing something to the underside of the nose, as far forward as you can.
If you need to add weight to the tail end of the airplane, because it's nose heavy, then try and add it to the very rear of the fuselage - where both sides come together, so to speak.Ward map
Whatever weight you add to the nose or tail, make sure it's very secure! Having the weight fly off during a flight will upset the CG and this is going to adversely effect the plane's flight characteristics. Depending on what you've used for ballast, tape or glue usually does the job of holding it in place. But remember that a lot of glue can add even more weight, so always be careful not to use too much.
Always recheck your airplane's balance once you've finished adding ballast. It's important to understand that a slightly nose heavy plane will still fly fine.
A tail heavy plane, however, is bad news; the plane will be at best very difficult to control, and at worst completely uncontrollable.
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